Several emotions took hold of me early this morning at the departure gate in La Guardia airport – excitement, anxiety, ambition, nostalgia, loneliness and so on. I’m about to spend the first night of possibly 2 years in the tiny town of Nebaj, Guatemala. The trip to get here was an 18 hour adventure – partly by choice since I enjoy long trips which offer much needed meditation and reflection time. That’s why I chose to take “chicken” buses from the airport to Nebaj, the town where I’ll be living. The buses are old school buses from the US.
They’re called chicken buses because apparently passengers often bring their chickens along for the ride. I did not plan for a 45 min flight delay in Florida though. I also did not think banks in Guatemala city would refuse to change US dollars without an account, forcing me to wander through much of the mall with my 50 lb suitcase, 30 lb duffel bag and 10 lb backpack searching for any place that would buy my dollars. That plus lunch accounted for 2 hours in the city.
I made a friend on the flight though. Pablo works on preserving indigenous (Maya) history and disseminating information on indigenous rights. He was kind enough to accompany me on my fruitless hunt to exchange dollars and had lunch with me before showing me to the bus stop and then taking his leave while running alongside his bus to Antigua. The buses don’t often stop if there are only 1 or 2 people; they slow down just enough for you to run and jump on. I had to do the same a few minutes later when I spotted a bus going to Quiche although the ayudante (assistant) kindly took my suitcase for me.
Then just 3 weeks after experiencing a Megabus breakdown delay on my way back from DC, I enjoyed a chicken bus breakdown about two hours into my 6 hour journey from the capital to Nebaj. I say enjoyed because for me the breakdown was a blessing in disguise. I had committed an egregious traveler’s sin – I forgot to use the bathroom beforehand. Almost immediately on boarding the bus I needed to pee, so 2 hours later when I realized the bus would be stopped for a while to get fixed, I gratefully hurried to the side of the road and relieved my bladder. It was only a 30 min setback before we resumed wildly swerving around curves along mountainside roads at top speed.
Everyone was calmly holding on for dear life. One guy was fast asleep but still had the windowsill firmly in his grasp. Every couple of hours, the bus was graced with a well dressed man loudly professing his religion for all to hear. Other buses get salesmen hawking miracle drugs. Eventually we reached Quiche where I asked around and found a micro (passenger van) to Nebaj. The van picked up more people along the way so that at one point we had 20 adults and a couple of kids huddled together tightly. We climbed higher into the mountains and it was getting to be a beautiful view.
I arrived in Nebaj around 8 pm in darkness and made my way to Popi’s to meet Alice (my coworker at Limitless Horizons). I ended up meeting several other people there as well because Popi’s is Nebaj’s foreigner headquarters and for good reason – great food, long hours, and most of all free Wi-Fi. Some locals, usually younger and more liberal, also frequent Popi’s. After dinner, Alice passed me off to my homestay parents: Domingo and Maria. It was past 10 so we didn’t talk too much. We just exchanged some basic introductions, took a quick house tour and then they showed me the standalone room where I would stay. They are both teachers and seem really nice. My room was spacious and came with a twin bed, a table & chair, and a dresser. I just unpacked a few things I needed for the next day and then I crashed (after setting my alarm for 6 am…ouch).